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3 wood for a slicer
Forums → Golf Equipment | 17 posts
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No matter how much I spend on lessons, and it has been plenty, I am still going to have a bit of a slice. I have a draw burner driver which helps to compensate and usually I only see the right rough once or twice per round. I sold my Callaway X 3 wood as I couldn’t keep it on the fairway and I am looking for a 3 wood to help me like the draw burner driver does. Any suggestions ?
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make sure you got a stiff shaft mate. even go to a different pro, get a second opinion you know? also you could try to lenghthen the shaft
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stiff shaft and/or lengthen the shaft ! You’ve got me intrigued Gribbles, can you please explain the science ? I actually cut 1.5” off my driver so I could get it under control, 45.5” was just too much.
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R7 draw fairway or R7 cgb max fairway if u want to keep it in the taylor range otherwise G10 draw series fairway might be good for u also also consider the adams xtd fairway os =) mouldy, i’d only get stiff if your swing is a stiff swing speed. if its a regular swing speed, then the stiffer shaft may accentuate your slice. and i dunno what gribbles is trying to get at either, LOL =) Cheers,
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if you slice a 3 wood…believe me I kniow as the only club I cant hit is 15 deg 3 wood…get a 5 wood… it will land about 15 -20 meters shorter maybe but hits the target every time I use wilson staff 5 wood…theres heaps of good ones about…admas make great fairways…stay away from the big headed ones if you slice…get a LP (low profile) which adams, TM draw….srixon make a great fairway wood also 405ad (which is about 4 years old is good..there is a latest M steel from srixon is going cheap on ebay at the moment too all the new ones are big headed monsters (bertha, burner) can be hard of tight lies and they seem longer shafted also cobra one I saw the other wday was good also. maybe get 16-17 deg 4 wood could be an option also
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my slice comes from hands being too far in front. sorry should have stated that. if you swing fast but have a reg shaft you may be getting your hands in front of the ball, = slice. for me anyway. but lets not forget i’m not a teaching pro!!!!!!!!
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I’de be careful there, you want your hands to pass the ball before the clubface does. A slice comes from 2 things as far as I know (which isn’t very far!). Firstly an out to in swing and also having too open a clubface at impact. Thats my knowledge on the subject but we had best wait for the learned ones to clarify. The slice could be a conceptual issue as well. Have a read of the golf school articles as they may help you better understand the dynamics of the golf swing (so what you are trying to do in your head aligns to how the golf swing should be performed).
100% perfect is a sad neurotic state of mind. Better than
yesterday is saner. - Dart, 2008. |
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mouldy, I need a little more info. What does your divot look like. Head left or right in degs please, heavy or light in depth What is your ball flight like high or low, does the ball start left and fade right, ( i’m guessing your right handed) Or straight down the target line and slice right etc. How far do you hit the ball carry with the three wood, please don’t bulls#it me mate. Can you hit it consistanly of the deck. What model of three wood do you have at the moment, and what’s the loft say. Thankyou Nigel.
Watch out typos + poor grammar. |
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Yeah as far as my input goes, added an inch to my 3wood and slice gone, mind you i did also focus on in to out a lot after it was done. so thats my 2cents. again lol
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Making me think hard Nigel, probably 20-30 degrees left ie club going outside in and not very deep divot at all. Flight is quite low and starts left of centre and if I’m lucky stays in the right fairway. Carry would be 170 then 20m run. I had a Callaway X 15deg with regular factory steel shaft but I sold it as I couldn’t make it work. I am looking for 200m+ straight. The problem stems from lack of hip rotation which is not getting any better with age. However I can get my draw burner driver out there 230m on a good swing with a carry of over 200m and a nice trajectory. The driver has the regular reax 50gm shaft. I hit my Callaway X-20 steel 5 iron dead straight 160m and hold greens ok. I have a Callaway X 4 hybrid (bent to 22deg) which gives me a high trajectory 170m with only a little fade so ok into greens Currently I have a Callaway X 19deg F/wood gives me 180m but with a more pronounced fade which makes it useless hitting into greens with no room on the left. I am trying to fill in between the driver and 4 hybrid with one or to clubs
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Issue comes from not swinging down and out, rather up and across the ball. Even a closed faced 3 wood is not going to help you much. You need to find a teacher who can fix the swing by even half of your current directional issues for any equipment change to be worth the spend.
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Just out of curiosity, do any pros use draw bias drivers/fairway clubs?
golf an infinite journey |
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That has always been my attitude. Fix the fault, don’t cover it up, however it all depends on your outlook on golf and how far you wish to go IMO.
100% perfect is a sad neurotic state of mind. Better than
yesterday is saner. - Dart, 2008. |
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I hated that cally 3 wood i got off you mouldy. I sliced it alot, was no good for me. I ended up getting a cleveland highbore 3 wood with a pro launch blue reg and its gold. Im not a slicer, but i hit this thing pure. Very easy to hit and i hit it with a draw usually. At the end of the day, its a swing fault that no club will truly fix. Get it sorted and the correct 3 wood will be much easier to find.
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Don’t think a three wood is the go for you ( your ball flight sounds to low), You need more loft, try a 4 or 5 wood and see how you go, I don’t think you have the swing speed for it, also the fact you sound like you swing a little out to in, the extra lenght of a three wood is going to make life a little harder. For the record the next longest wood I own is a 18deg with a 1/2 deg closed face, five wood which has a lot of offset I get a good 200 meters out of that club on the deck, I might be able to hit a three wood, but I find playing on the fairway a lot easier than in the trees, don’t let your clubs handycap you..Good luck with it mate.
Watch out typos + poor grammar. |
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I agree I dont use a 3 wood for taht reason…5 wood is so much easier to hit… tjhe extra loft enables me to hit a draw…a draw with my 5 wood will only be 10 meters shorter than a sliced 3 wood…the 5 wood as nigel said is in the middle and the 3 wood is in treees….yep grab that trusty tree iron again :-( find a 5 wood you can hit a draw with…on shafts go for fairly light shaft in reg should be ok
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Thanks for the input guys. I must say that my main aim is to win money from my mates, at 57 I have no great aspirations other than trying for an occasional birdie putt on long par 4’s. One last question Nigel, I take it that the lot of offset allows time for the hands to get into the right position ? So the offset and the closed face are really slightly compensating for swing issues ? I assume you have made your own wood but what brands have a similar combination that I could try in a 4 or 5 wood. Also what type of shaft should I look at to get more height, should I go for the 50gm REAX I have in my 10.5 draw burner which works well for me ? The other option I am considering is going to a 2 hybrid as I find my 4 hybrid very easy to hit consistently with a nice high trajectory.
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