Titleist irons - which wedge to include?

ForumsGolf Equipment | 19 posts
 

About to purchase a set of Titleist 755 irons, 3-PW, and am getting a Vokey wedge for the SW

The PW is the standard 47 deg. I currently have a Vokey SM60.08

What are the suggestions for the extra wedge…. Options are a 54 or a 56 with either 10 or 14 deg bounce.

I currently have a Maxfli 52 deg wedge. So could go as follows;

Go with the 56 degree, giving me PW, 52, 56, 60 (increments of 4 or 5 degrees)

or

Go with the 54 degree (sell the 52), giving me PW, 54, 60 (increments of 6 or 7 degrees)

My thought is go with the 56 and keep the 52 as I den’t hit long irons very often, so more wedges gives more choice from 120m in. Also, closer together in loft increments so easier to judge the distance gap?

But, if I go with the 54 and ditch the 52, then I can include a 3 wood into my bag at some point…

Thoughts on the loft and bounce for the new wedge?

Cheers M

 

Bend the PW to 46 drop the 3 iron for a 19 degree hybrid and have 4 degree gaps right thru to 50 54 and 58 wedges.

"Happiness is a long walk with your putter"- Greg Norman

 

jack, as above, I already have a 52 Maxfli and a 60 vokey… so no 50 or 58 and not getting 3 new wedges, and def can’t afford 3 wedges and a hybrid! thanks though.

 

I’d not worry about getting the PW and get a 48* Vokey instead – so so so much better than the stock PW in the 755’s. I have 54* and 60* from there because I need all the help I can get with my long game and can’t afford to go with a gap wedge.

 

If you must carry a 60 then 56 and 52 will be the best pairings. More than 4 degree gaps and you will have too many 3/4 wedge shots. You could have them all bent 1 or 2 degrees stronger which would help further down the bag when you get to the 7, 6 and 5 irons if you keep a 4 degree gap right thru. This will help if you are not a long hitter. Get all your loft angles checked and they will probably end up bending the 6 iron by up to 3 degrees stronger.

Go for Dr, 3W, Hybrid/5W, 4 iron at 22 deg then a 4 deg gap all the way thru. Drop the 3 iron as you’ll never hit it anyway.

Always get a high bounce on your wedges.

"Happiness is a long walk with your putter"- Greg Norman

 

I would get a 52 or 54 and get it bent to 53 and that would give you 7* between each wedge. If you could affoed to I would get a 52 and 58 which is a little bit easier to manage in my opinion. I had a similar issue when I got my ping i5’s. I ended up going 52 and 58 and I am happy with my set up. In my old set I had a 48, 54 and 60 set up, but found I hit a lot of 3/4 48’s as I could not hit the 54 far enough.

 

If you must carry a 60 then 56 and 52 will be the best pairings. More than 4 degree gaps and you will have too many 3/4 wedge shots.

Sorry to disagree with you again, OEJ, but loft increments in the wedges are really not that important since the vast majority of wedge shots are less than full shots anyway.

You are better off to chose wedges based on the conditions of the courses you most often play and the types of shots you prefer playing.

If this means you end up with a 47, 50, 57 and 60, then so be it. The 7* increment means very little in practical terms.

Personally, I think that three wedges is enough for most average golfers. I use a 47, 52 and 60 and can play any shot I choose with these.

Mick

 

Sorry vman but “the vast majority of wedge shots are less than full shots anyway”????

350 yard par 4. 3 wood then full 58 degree. 400 yard par 4. Driver then full 50 degree.

Have heard plenty of pros say ‘I’d rather leave myself a full wedge in than try and hit a 70% shot”.

The last thing I want to be doing is having to fashion shots with the wrong clubs, 7 degrees is too big a gap in my opinion.

"Happiness is a long walk with your putter"- Greg Norman

 

Sorry vman but “the vast majority of wedge shots are less than full shots anyway”????

350 yard par 4. 3 wood then full 58 degree. 400 yard par 4. Driver then full 50 degree.

Have heard plenty of pros say ‘I’d rather leave myself a full wedge in than try and hit a 70% shot”.

The last thing I want to be doing is having to fashion shots with the wrong clubs, 7 degrees is too big a gap in my opinion.

mrobbie, I think OEJ is on the right track.

Because your PWedge is strong at 47* then I’d keep that same theme going if your not a strong hitter. My thoughts for you would be : Your 52* Maxfli bent to 51. New 54/10 bent to 55/11. Old 60/08 bent to 59/ 07.

This gives you the 4 of loft between your wedges that you’re looking for. Generally a stronger blend and better bounce options for the average golfer. Only one new wedge to buy, aswell.

IMHO, if you can manage to get the full set of wedges at once then do it, because they are matched/balanced. You won’t have different shafts and grips either. Jon…

 

350 yard par 4. 3 wood then full 58 degree. 400 yard par 4. Driver then full 50 degree.

And how many try to leave themselves a full 60 wedge? Not many.

Ask any good golfer how many times in a round he would hit any of his more lofted wedges flat out and they will tell you ‘very rarely’.

Example 1. The main use for a 60 wedge is for short piches over obstacles or to short cut pins. Rarely does the good golfer say to himself, “If I can just hit this 60 LW out of the screws, I should be able to make it from here”.

The same is true, admittedly to a lesser extent, with the less lofted wedges. Most shots with SW are less than full; many shots with the GW are less than full; and some shots with th PW are less than full.

It does not worry me in the slightest that my LW has 8* more loft than the next most lofted club in my bag. In fact, sometimes I wish it had more loft. And, when the shot doesn’t require the LW, my 52* wedge has more than enough loft to play any ather shot I might encounter on the golf course. Why would I need a club in between?

Mick

 

This gives you the 4 of loft between your wedges that you’re looking for… Jon…

ARGHH, I thought you would have known better, Jon.

Mick

 

Ask any good golfer how many times he would hit a full 54 degree if it was the right distance and he would say everytime.

For me full wedge is 130 yds, full 50 deg is 115 yds, full 54 deg is 100 yds and full 58 deg is 85 yds. Why would you not hit full lob wedges I don’t understand?

I do not carry a 60 degree because to hit them full is not so easy but the rest are no problem especially with plenty of bounce angle.

I think you are now bordering on telling him how to actually PLAY golf rather than equipment ADVICE.

"Happiness is a long walk with your putter"- Greg Norman

 

Ask any good golfer how many times he would hit a full 54 degree if it was the right distance and he would say everytime.

And how often is he ‘exactly’ a full 54 degree wedge? Rarely. He is just as often 5, 10 or 15 metres shy of a full wedge. If you are good enough to put it the exact full wedge distance from the pin everytime, then join the tour. Otherwise you will be playing a variety of shots with each wedge and only a small percentage of them will be full.

For me full wedge is 130 yds, full 50 deg is 115 yds, full 54 deg is 100 yds and full 58 deg is 85 yds. Why would you not hit full lob wedges I don’t understand?

Because the more lofted the club, the less distance control you have. The LW is usually a ‘must hit’ only club even for the pro’s.

Most pro’s can hit the LW around the 80 metre mark but, unless they have to, most will prefer to hit a 3/4 SW. Why? Bettter distance control.

I do not carry a 60 degree because to hit them full is not so easy.

My point exactly.

I think you are now bordering on telling him how to actually PLAY golf rather than equipment ADVICE.

Not at all. I am just saying what happens in real life situations.

Each wedge has a job. Select each wedge on its ability to do the job required, ie: correct loft and bounce. If this means you end up with nice even 4 degree increments, then well and good. If not, then who cares.

Mick

 

Give it a rest I do play golf in real life situations and have no trouble with distance control on my wedges. I carry 4 of them so can really fire in at the pin anywhere from 115 to 85yds.

I agree with you on the 60 but only the 60.

"Happiness is a long walk with your putter"- Greg Norman

 

I agree with you on the 60 but only the 60.

I am glad I am starting to convince you. ;)

The same principle applies, to a lesser degree, with the other wedges. Why else would there be so many instruction articles on how to play 1/2, 3/4, knock-down and cut-up wedge shots? Because in an average round the golfer is faced with so many of these shots, which makes the even loft increment argument quite reduntant.

Golf would be a much simpler game if most wedge shots were played with a full swing. Unfortunately, that ain’t the case.

Mick

 

You are not convincing me I have always felt that way about a 60 which is why I don’t carry one anymore. A full easy swing on any wedge 58 degree up with a decent bounce angle is an easier shot for the average golfer than any knock-down or 1/2 or 3/4 or cut-up wedge shots. Good course management can remove the need for any of those shots.

The reason there are lots of articles about those shots is to make people think they need those shots when they don’t. The flop shot is covered a lot as well but that is another shot the average golfer should steer well away from.

Ultimately it probably comes down to personal preference on how to play your round.

"Happiness is a long walk with your putter"- Greg Norman

 

ok guys, thanks for the input.

I am going to go with the Vokey 56.10 or 56.14. Not bending clubs into other lofts. This will give me 47, 52, 56, 60 so lots of options round the greens.

I am quite long off the tee, and hit my 3 iron fairly well, and am hoping the new set will be as playable in the long irons.

Cheers Mike

 

Most amateurs carry too many wedges, and make matters difficult for themselves. I’ve read instruction from Tiger, Phil and Tom Watson that basically say most amateurs, even single figure markers, should become proficient with one wedge for most of their shots around the green. If that’s a 56 say, you effectively turn your PW and GW into 10 and 11 irons.

Best to steer clear of making matters to confusing by carrying too many options and ideas around.

 

Well said, Scottt.

Mick

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