Taylormade R7 460: Length off the tee?

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Bought a Taylormade R7 460 (9.5 deg, stiff flex) a couple of months back. Previously had a Callaway Great Big Bertha Titanium (9 deg, firm flex)...

Now, firstly, don’t get me wrong – the R7 is FAR more consistent off the tee so hitting more fairways, which I am happy about.

However, despite the R7 having much more ball flight (awesome trajectory!), I get the nagging feeling that I used to hit the Callaway further. Having sold the callaway, I can’t do a side by side comparisson now. When trying out the 460 prior to buying, I was able to do side by side on a driving range and was blown away by the consistency of the R7.

I used to be above average for driver distance (up there with the winners of a longest drive hole at an outing)

With the Callway, I would hit 230-240m

With the R7 I am hitting around 220-230 (but yes, hitting more fairways)

I’ve spent some time at the range trying to change the swing a bit, and trying teeing the ball at different heights.

Anyone got thoughts on this? Similar experiences? Things to try differently? I’d have thought going from a 6+ year old driver to the R7 would have given me a few more meters, but I’m not thinking that at the moment.

One thing I have noticed is the R7 grip is very skinny – will a thicker grip help me any?

Cheers Mike

 

I reckon most would swap 10-20 yards off their driver for increased accuracy!

I tried a R7 for a couple of months, but my dodgy swing ensured I was hitting it as far as the old Nike Ignite. The Cleveland Launcher that replaced the R7 hit as far with much more consistency. The FT-i that replaced the launcher, well it looks ugly and sounds ugly – and doesn’t appreciably change distance.

For what it’s worth I’d say the occasions where you needed the extra distance would pale in comparison to the shots you’d save by being able to stay on the short stuff – but no can’t say I’ve ever noticed significant differences in driver distance from shots I’ve hit properly – across drivers.

 

Do you have the stock shaft in it?

 

Yes, the stock RE-AX 60 stiff shaft

 

A mate of mine had the same complaint, very straight but very short. He is a scratch marker so knows his stuff, State Mid Amateur champ actually ;)

Anyway, he’s playing a 907 D2 with Accra now, the TM R7 460 was probably 5 or 6 drivers ago !

 

There is nothing wrong with the driver head, it is as long as all the rest of them out there. I have one, not currently in play, as it can’t knock my R7 quad out of the bag (I like the 4 weight set up in these compared to the two weight adjustability in the R7 460). It was originally shafted with a V2 stiff, but this shaft has no feel for me and was very inconsistent (really cannot see why they get such rave reviews). I then had it reshafted with a Grafalloy bimatrix proto in stiff ( tipped 1 inch and plays at 45.5) and it was the bomb. Subsequently had my R7 quad reshafted with the same Grafalloy bimatrix proto shaft and this is one of my current gamers. Like I said, the head works like all the rest of them out there, just a matter of getting that stock shaft tossed as they are really just a cheap piece of graphite. It may say Fujikara, but that is where the resemblance finishes to anything that they make.

 

I reckon most would swap 10-20 yards off their driver for increased accuracy!

Yeah, but that is why I clarified that it is more consistent straight away. However, comparing a driver released around 1990 with once from 2005/06 I thought I would see i) more consistency and ii) some more length off the tee.

I am definitely seeing the consistency, but length has not blown me away.

I’ll keep the shaft idea in mind, but for now going to keep it as it is and see how more practice helps me along.

Cheers M

 

A mate of mine had the same complaint, very straight but very short. He is a scratch marker so knows his stuff, State Mid Amateur champ actually ;)

Anyway, he’s playing a 907 D2 with Accra now, the TM R7 460 was probably 5 or 6 drivers ago !

Just because he might be a scratch marker doesn’t mean that he knows WTF he is talking about with regard to gear.

Beware of cheap imitations - Especially from the US

 

A mate of mine had the same complaint, very straight but very short. He is a scratch marker so knows his stuff, State Mid Amateur champ actually ;)

Anyway, he’s playing a 907 D2 with Accra now, the TM R7 460 was probably 5 or 6 drivers ago !

Just because he might be a scratch marker doesn’t mean that he knows WTF he is talking about with regard to gear.

Probably better qualified than most I would suggest your highness.

 

I have the R7 460 and the Titty 905R and for me the R7 is alot longer off the tee.. Maybe around 15-20 metres

 

Whoa – what’s more accurate for you… and do they have similar flex?

 

I have recently replaced my R7 460 with a Nak NP1.

Slightly lower flight with the Nak (10* vs 10.5 in the R7), but heaps more carry and roll.

R7 had stock stiff shaft while the Nak has an NVS stiff.

Find I am hitting a bit of a fade with the Nak compared to a straighter ball with the R7 (which had the larger weight in the heel), but the Nak looks, sounds and feels way more solid.

 

I have recently replaced my R7 460 with a Nak NP1.

Slightly lower flight with the Nak (10* vs 10.5 in the R7), but heaps more carry and roll.

R7 had stock stiff shaft while the Nak has an NVS stiff.

Find I am hitting a bit of a fade with the Nak compared to a straighter ball with the R7 (which had the larger weight in the heel), but the Nak looks, sounds and feels way more solid.

The Nak would be much closer to the ‘real’ 10 deg as printed on the head as compared to the TM R7 which could have been 1-2.5 degrees higher actual loft than printed on the clubhead. This would account for the lower flight. The fade you are experiencing also would be more of the face angle being squarer in the NAK compared to the closed on the TM. Also, another factor to bear in mind, and this is probably why you are hitting the NAK further would be the shaft. Shaft flex on the Aldila would be closer to the flex as stated on the shaft as compared to the TM stock shafts which would have played ‘soft’ to flex. Most, if not all, rebranded manufacturer stock shafts play ‘soft’ to flex. Also, the kick point, butt stiffness and tip stiffness would also be different between the two offerings. Higher loft, closed face, softer flex and different kick points all make it easier for the average golfer to get the driver going. Cheers

 

Mickyboy

Your comments about the shafts are interesting.

I have owned 2 different “made for …... by Aldila” green shafts in 3 woods, both 75 gram stiff, and they could not have felt or behaved more differently.

 

Geez mrobbie, fair bit to take in there….... My only mildy educated guess is the shaft on your old driver must have been a bit more whippy, hence less accurate yet long. Your new driver being slightly stiffer, would yeild more consistancy but no more distance unless your swing is getting stronger as you get older, (don’t we all wish for that.) This would be my best guess if the clubs have similar lengths and lofts, though the new bigger head of the R7 may also help reign in more wayward hits than the smaller club head. Hope my hacker style guesswork helps mate. Happy golfing.

It's the only game in the world where you can call penalty on yourself. It's the greatest game there is.

 

mickyboy Tell me this. Why is it that manufacturers can’t produce heads with the loft at the printed angle. We do live in the 21st century after all.

Bushman

 

mickyboy Tell me this. Why is it that manufacturers can’t produce heads with the loft at the printed angle. We do live in the 21st century after all.

Bushman

I would ask them. But seriously, the oem’s want you to believe that you can hit a 9 or 9.5 or whatever really well, just like the pros, that must make you or me or whoever a really good golfer. When I have ckecked the lofts on these heads they are 95% of the time wrong. The other 5% would be a fluke I would guess. A better question would be why do they have a retail and a TP version of most of their drivers? Tp versions normally are very close to stated loft and suqare to open angle. As a consumer, why do I need to pay extra for a head that should have the correct specs in the first place. Components (the good ones) give you the choice to get what you want. hope that all makes sense. cheers

 

mickyboy Tell me this. Why is it that manufacturers can’t produce heads with the loft at the printed angle. We do live in the 21st century after all.

Bushman

They know you won’t buy a head with 12 stamped on the bottom even though they know you need one…

mrrobbie. It sounds like the shaft & the shallower face in your Callaway suited your swing better. End of story.

kranzl. I don’t agree. Almost every golfer I know would give up his left nut to hit it 10m further (they also want to hit every fairway too mind you) which is why no manufacturer ever put out an ad saying “our driver hits it shorter than your current one BUT it’s accurate!”. Turn up speakers now to hear Queens “I want it all”.....LOL.

Home on The Range

 

Geez mrobbie, fair bit to take in there…….

I thought I was pretty much to the point with the required details :)

Anyway, the R7 was exchanged for a 905R with a YS6+ stiff shaft due to it developing a head rattle. Will confirm how it compares shortly….

 

....905R appears to be longer than the R7 after my 1st round with it. Less consistent direction, but longer.

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