I’ve seen this question asked before, any movement?

I’ve seen this question asked before, any movement?

“If Ben Hogan saw that, he’d puke…”

Im not sure I know what you mean.

Do you mean why dont we have a designated section for this topic? Or more stories for readers?

Sorry Madam, yes I meant designated section. Are there enough club building hobbyists out there that would make the section worthwhile?

Or is it better served as individual topics within the equipment forum?

I think under equip as a new topic. It’s an interesting topic for sure. If it goes off we can revisit the original question.

Not to worry… Thanks. Apologies for the first post being cryptic, had just finished searching for some similar posts and well… you know how it goes.

Bushy, your topic heading had me thinking of bricks and mortar clubhouse buildings.

Sorry OB, I have been mucking around with basic club repairs and re-gripping but after a bit of motivational web browsing I built myself a driver today from scratch. Most, if not all the information I got to go off came from US websites, hence why I wanted to see if there were many pro/hobbyist club builders as members here.

So I guess that would be the next question…?

So Bushy, what was the most difficult part of the driver build ?
Did you have new raw components to work with or did you have to strip down an old driver ?
How did you gauge length and swingweight or was it a pull and rebuild job ?
Jon…

Was a bit of both I think.
The idea of this was that I have a VR Pro head that I find is very low spinning but the stock shaft really didn’t feel good to me. Meanwhile I had a Diamana Ahina X5CT with a Titleist tip that has been sitting in the spares bag for ages. So I decided to ‘attempt’ a tip swap with a regrip whilst tipping the Ahina 0.25” and getting it to a playing length of 44.5”. I dont have a swingweight scale so I went off feel before glueing the tip on, however I’m heading to the club today to test my Swingbyte so I’ll try and get it on the scales there if I can.

For a first time job nothing was overly difficult, but I was definitely more concerned before I started about the removal and install of the str8fit tip from the Nike. I had only seen videos on how to do it precisely and I certainly didn’t want to damage the Ahina in the process. The ferrule on the Nike came away alot easier than expected but because the str8fit tip relies on spines and a central point for adjustment you have to be very precise with where you set it, because the settings rely on the ferrule and tip being in the right place. BUT, None of the info I found online actually mentioned that the str8fit has a notch which lines up with the ferrule to make it simple for realigning, so simple that once I got it off I felt much more comfortable putting it back on.

I actually took it out for 9 holes yesterday arvo and it really went well. Good flight, great distance-a little better than my D3 and the feel was much better than what it was before. Had a blinder of a 9 holes, but thats another story.

I want to get into club building more now, buy a few tools such as a swing weight scale, shaft puller, get a supply of weight plugs, anything else that I cant really think of right now. It’s interesting to me, very rewarding and I’ve always been a tinkerer so I guess its an evolutionary process.

Thanks guys a good topic starting we may move it over to golf equip so more people see it and can join in.

No worries, thanks Madam.

Good job Bushy.
I was going to reshaft my irons mid last year.
Brought the shafts, pulled the old ones, saw the weight plugs, boxed everything up and took it down to GolfGuy33!!

Much easier, but i would like to have a tinker one day

Yeah, I’m going softly softly until I’ve got a bit more knowledge and experience. Actually today I pulled the stock shaft out of my SQ2 3 wood and replaced it with a Project X 7C3 that i had hanging around with a Titleist tip. I’m expecting a low to mid launch compared to the stock thing that was in it. Even so, I loved that old thing, kicked the RBZ back out of the bag.

The beauty of the Internet is you can generally learn anything from the comfort of your study, just need a bit of belief that I can do it properly.

Wow, the launch is almost exactly what I was expecting. Really mid-piercing flight with what appeared to be some considerable distance gain. The biggest thing though is it is 1000% more controllable compared to the original stock shaft that’s been in it for 7 odd years.. Good times.

I’d be keen to have a dedicated forum.

In the last 3 months I have managed to reshaft 2 drivers, repaint a driver, a FW wood, and a hybrid. I have reshafted 2 wedges, stamped one of them, reshafted a putter, and regripped about 25 clubs.

In all cases I did it mainly because I could, and I like the mechanics of tinkering on things, as much as I like using them. (Hence why I build my own fishing rods, and restore old motorbikes).

None have been too hard a job, but it would be nice to have a local resource when tackling things I haven’t done before.

Oh, and I have a set on Adilia NV105 irons shafts on the way to drop in my new-to-me Nickents. Going to try set them up quasi-MOI matched with the swing weight gradually increasing from 4i to PW. Get to use my home made SW machine on top of my home made shaft puller.

Happy times!

Cheers,
Ben

Benno, are you getting most of your gear from the US? I cant seem to find any supplies locally.

I ‘build’ all my clubs: Am always on ebay looking for clubs and sets of shafts/individual shafts.

Currently playing 1982 blades with PX 5.0 flighted shafts (original TT stiff shafts too hard and heavy for me) and Tacki mac itomic 2 grips – bought inch long ferrules which look better than modern small ferrules.

Also shafted 2 sets of Taylormade V steel fairway woods (3,5 & 7) with NS Pro 850 FW steel shafts and Accuflex icon FH graphite shafts – both Reg. flex…both equally beautiflul to hit – i love swapping between the two ‘sets’ of woods.

Lost count the number of times i’ve re-shafted/experimented with the drivers – i have 2 identical drivers for experimentation.

The ‘cost saving’ in re-gripping alone is enormous – approx. $5.00 per club. I buy my grips from US – $40.00 for 13 grips (TackiMac).
And, once you get the ‘knack’, re-gripping is so easy and quick.

The most interesting ( and frustrating) are the earlier clubs where pins and rivots provide plenty to think about: Recently pulled shafts from early (lead-headed) muscle back irons which i had to drill out the rivots and then, because shafts were so badly ‘stuck’ inside the hosels, i had to cut shafts in half so i could bash metal rod down the shortened shaft to pop the head off a couple of the irons! It was worth it, they are the nicest irons i have ever hit. Unfortunately they were made in the ‘20’s and the lofts are 2 clubs different to todays lofts – 6iron being equal to todays 8 iron: Also, lengthing shafts to modern length has thrown lie out by 1 1/2 to 2 degrees – this, added to the loft difference, makes them impracticle for serious play…i keep the 7 iron shafted with Rifle shaft just for fun.

I have an American (Mitchell golf equipment co) shaft puller which was sourced from local golf supplier based in Sydney.
And am now saving up for lie & loft machine.

Benno, are you getting most of your gear from the US? I cant seem to find any supplies locally.

“If Ben Hogan saw that, he’d puke…”

Spend most of my money at either Golfworks in the US, Gamola Golf in the UK, or straight of eBay. eBay UK does have some good deals on shaft sets, but eBay USA has the greatest range.

Cheers,
Ben

Golf works looks like a good store. How’s the postage? I was about to order a set of tackimac wraps… $37 for a set of 13.

Postage is only “OK”.

I bought a heap of supplies, shims, small tools and a dozen grips. Cost was $120 US, and shipping was $50 US.

I don’t mind though, as most of the stuff I can’t find here, and the grips were as cheap as chips. Save $10-15 a grip on putter grips, and $5-8 a grip on normal grips, with a better range than what you find here. It’s a no-brainer!

Check the contact details at the bottom of the front page. Donna Ours is the international person, and can give you a shipping quote before hand if you like. Very easy to deal with.

Oh, and have a look at the Excalibur shafts, if you are the market for a cheap, awesome graphite shaft!

Cheers,
Ben

I ‘build’ all my clubs: Am always on ebay looking for clubs and sets of shafts/individual shafts.

Currently playing 1982 blades with PX 5.0 flighted shafts (original TT stiff shafts too hard and heavy for me) and Tacki mac itomic 2 grips – bought inch long ferrules which look better than modern small ferrules.

Also shafted 2 sets of Taylormade V steel fairway woods (3,5 & 7) with NS Pro 850 FW steel shafts and Accuflex icon FH graphite shafts – both Reg. flex…both equally beautiflul to hit – i love swapping between the two ‘sets’ of woods.

Lost count the number of times i’ve re-shafted/experimented with the drivers – i have 2 identical drivers for experimentation.

The ‘cost saving’ in re-gripping alone is enormous – approx. $5.00 per club. I buy my grips from US – $40.00 for 13 grips (TackiMac).
And, once you get the ‘knack’, re-gripping is so easy and quick.

The most interesting ( and frustrating) are the earlier clubs where pins and rivots provide plenty to think about: Recently pulled shafts from early (lead-headed) muscle back irons which i had to drill out the rivots and then, because shafts were so badly ‘stuck’ inside the hosels, i had to cut shafts in half so i could bash metal rod down the shortened shaft to pop the head off a couple of the irons! It was worth it, they are the nicest irons i have ever hit. Unfortunately they were made in the ‘20’s and the lofts are 2 clubs different to todays lofts – 6iron being equal to todays 8 iron: Also, lengthing shafts to modern length has thrown lie out by 1 1/2 to 2 degrees – this, added to the loft difference, makes them impracticle for serious play…i keep the 7 iron shafted with Rifle shaft just for fun.

I have an American (Mitchell golf equipment co) shaft puller which was sourced from local golf supplier based in Sydney.
And am now saving up for lie & loft machine.

TM 320ti driver Accuflex creation65
TM 3, 5 & 7 wood NS Pro 850 FW steel shaft.
TM 5 rescue Accuflex Icon HL
Titliest double muscle 5-PW Project x 5.0
Cobra 55 & 61 deg. Rifle 5.0
’Orion’ putter Hickory shaft.

Pim I may know of a local pro (Gold Coast) that has an extra Loft/Lie machine any interest? Id have to get a hold of him to see if he still has and happy to pass on your details if interested. my email below.

Hi guys

This company advertises with us on occasion. If you need grips and DIY check them out Im unsure of prices etc but looked alright.

Mr Golf Grip

I could probably get him on here if you had questions he was working for major manufacturer and has heaps of insight.

There is also this mob.
A few shafts, but heaps of club making supplies

http://www.onlinegolfcompon...

There is also this mob.
A few shafts, but heaps of club making supplies

http://www.onlinegolfcompon…

2011 C Grade Champion Vic ISG Round #4 OOM Keysborough Golf Club
2012 B Grade Champion Paterson River ISG OOM Round #3
2012 ISG Matchplay Champion

http://www.golflink.com.au/...

Have you bought from there before? I got a confusing email from the operators today after I enquired about the site. Sounded like it would be a PIA.

I havent brought from them, but I have heard good things.