Fellow Iseekgolfers,

Looking to tart up my 5 wood (Ping G15) and 3 hybrid (Ping G10) due to copious chips, scratches, skymarks etc. I have seen all the threads on GolfWRX and other US sites, but I am looking for advice on paint that I can source locally.

I have airbrushing gear, but can’t use it in my new residence, so will have to be spray can all the way.

Has anyone got some suggestions for durable, locally sourced rattle can paint?

Cheers,
Ben

Try Bunnings in the auto paint section or even a local auto paint supplier

Thanks GG,

I have a line on good paint at Repco, and some other stuff from Bunnings. After advise though if I should go Acrylic, or enamel etc.

I know how to paint (done motorbikes and guitars), but never with rattle cans. Just want to make sure I put something on that won’t be too easy to chip/scratch etc.

Cheers,
Ben

benno, can you let me know what spray paint you went with and how well it worked.

I use Killrust airosol from bunnings, its a one pack epoxy, takes a while to dry but it’s a lot harder finish than auto paint.

Do you need to do anything to the club before painting or just paint.

A light sanding to scuff up the surface should be fine.

OK lads,

Got a hold of White Knight paints (PPG), and asked them the go with their paint. This is their response:
1. Sand old paint off. Sand to no finer than 300 grit sandpaper
2. Spray first with SLS Etch primer. Dry as per spec.
3. Spray with colour coat and dry as per instructions.

Hardest colour coat they have is rust guard (like killrust), but advised it would take 2 months to properly dry to full hardness, and you do not heat it to dry faster as it makes things worse.

If you want to get up and going faster use their squirts enamel, but don’t use for at least a week. The rust guard does end up way harder than the enamel.

They have a far better range than killrust in colours, thats why I will go with them.

I paint over my Christmas break, so I will keep everyone updated.

Cheers,
Ben

In order to get way up and heading faster make use of their squirts enameled surface.

Hardest color coat they have got is rust guard but advised it could take two months for you to properly dry out to entire hardness.

Two months is a bit over the top, I have found a couple of weeks is fine. I would have said 300 grit is a bit too coarse and sanding marks will be visible in the finished product, I would suggest 600 grit for a top finish. ( I used to own a panel & paint shop so I am speaking from experience)

I’ll take that on board ODM, the guy at PPG went as low as 240 grit to give a rough surface for the paint to bite. Having done a few guitars and motorbikes I agree 600 probably isn’t a bad idea.

Cheers,
Ben

UPDATE:

Stripped the paint off 2 clubs – a Ping G15 5W, and a Ping G10 3H. Used gasket remover spray – I have used this stuff before and it is lethal on paint and plastic (I removed the shafts first).

G10 everything peeled off in one spray, but on the G15 3 sprays/rinses and the paint still didn’t come off. They must have started to use much better paint from the G15 series on.

Anyway, sanded it clean down to 600 grit, masked it up using fine line tape. Used white knight metal etch primer, then white knight metal guard flat black. Check the pics for results.

Will give it a very light sand to level the paint, then give it a final coat tomorrow.

So far so good…

Looking good so far.

UPDATE 2:

Finished a total of 4 clubs – 2 in Matt Back, 2 in Matt White. Very happy so far. Off to work for 3 weeks, so should give them ample time to cure.

Attached is the G15 5W in matt black, and a Nickent 4DX driver in Matt white.

Cheers,
Ben

that is a great job you have done there, the paint looks very clean and uniform in thickness and the lines a notably crisp, especially like the matte black g15.
You could get a production line of those going, I would be first in the cue!

Cheers Daz,

I am most happy with the G15 as well, although the G15 hybrid came out quite nicely as well.

No need to get me to do them for you, I reckon for $20 in paint, tape and sandpaper, and a bit of elbow grease, you could knock it up easily yourself.

Cheers,
Ben